Heather Worley Living in St. Petersburg, Russia
I was talking to Mom on the phone while I was in Spain, and the subject of
shopping came up. I started talking about shopping in Russia, and realized
I had yet to write home about it, although I'd intended to long ago. So
here's the shopping experience in Russia.
First of all, there are the produkty (food) stores. They're not really
big enough to be called grocery stores. The closest thing in America would
be a country store or a convenience store, but the prices are better and they
carry staples instead of junk food. Nearly every produkty has cheese (in
blocks, not slices), sausage, bread, tea, snacks to go with tea, and usually
ice cream and alcohol, too. Some even have convenience foods, such as
frozen vegetables or pelmeny (meat dumplings). Produkty are your best
friend. In my part of town, there is one on nearly every corner.
If you want milk, you can stop at a dairy store, but more likely there is a
little dairy stand on your corner, selling yogurt, milk, sour cream (a must
in every Russian kitchen), and kefir (a sour, drinkable yogurt which I think
is just fabulous on muesli or granola). I feel sorry for the girls who
work in those - there's barely room to turn around, and in the winter their
only protection from the cold is a glass partition over the counter that keeps
out most of the wind.
The more interesting places to shop are the rynki, or markets. There is
one about five minutes' walk from where I live that is apparently one of the
better ones in town. There are dozens of vendors, selling meat, cheese,
fresh fruit and vegetables, eggs, bread, and other foods, as well as cosmetics
and soap. In the center is a covered tent with booths selling clothes,
dishes, shower heads, and pretty much everything else. But what makes
this market cool is that the large building towards the back houses vendors
carrying every fruit, vegetable, dried spice, or flavor of honey you could possibly
want. It smells fabulous and the colors of all those together is every
more beautiful.
Just across the street are two small chain discount stores, Dixie and Yuzhnyi
Dvor (Southern Courtyard), which sell, respectively, discount groceries and
discount household goods. However, like discount stores in America, there's
no telling what they'll have that week, although certain staples you can usually
count on.
Around most markets and metro stations are little old ladies selling hand-knit
woolen socks, stocking caps (which are actually really cute), scarves, sunflower
seeds, shredded cabbage and carrots (saves a bit of time if you're running late
and have to cook dinner), and sometimes pantyhose. Their business is technically
illegal, because it's unregistered, so every once in a while a mean cop comes
along and chases them off, and they hang out somewhere else for a little while.
Also around most markets tend to be the Russian version of a garage sale (tag
sale for you east-coasters): people with a blanket spread out on the ground
selling everything from old books to lamps to shoes. Also near metro stations
tend to be a lot of food vendors selling pigs-in-a-blanket (and other questionable
meat products and fried foods) and ice cream.
There are also markets further away from the center that sell a lot of highly-questionable,
most likely illegal goods, like CD's and DVD's for ridiculously low prices.
Some apparently traffic in people, too, which is a huge problem in Russia, although
I've never witnessed this.
Unfortunately, there is nothing like a drugstore in Russia, so the things you
would buy at a drugstore in America are divided up among several shops: apteka
(pharmacy), parfyumeriya (perfumery - often actually sells shampoo, razors,
etc.), kosmetika (make-up), and tovary dlya ofica (office-supply store).
Along Bolshoi Prospekt, near my house, are a lot of boutiques and clothing shops,
many selling western brands of clothes which cost way too much. There's
even a Hallmark (with cards in Russian and English!) on this street. Several
bookshops are located near my place, many of which also sell a limited amount
of office supplies. The biggest bookstore in town is on Nevsky Prospekt,
and it is about the size of a Borders or a Barnes & Noble in Oklahoma.
At the smaller bookstores and also at smaller CD and DVD shops, there are often
several employees who simply stand around (often about six inches from a customer)
to ensure you don't try to swipe things, although they often offer to help you
find things, too. I think this is great, because Russian stores are generally
pretty disorganized. Even in well-organized American stores it can be
hard to find things, and finding an actual employee? - forget it.
There aren't too many bigger stores in St. Petersburg like you would find in
most American towns - not really department stores or big anchor stores, and
certainly nothing like a Wal-Mart. There's a shopping center downtown
called the Passazh that's sort of like a mall, but it's really small and really
expensive. Just down the street is Gostinny Dvor, a former royal residence
that is now a huge shopping center. It's very easy to get lost among the
many small shops, but you're more likely to find things like good-quality luggage
and clothes there, although at high prices. Supposedly there's a real American-style
shopping mall, complete with a food court, on the mainland near Justin's place,
but I haven't seen it.
Most stores in Russia have everything behind counters and glass cases, and you
have to ask an employee to get it down for you, and they only hand it to you
after you pay. In some cases, one employee gets things down from the shelf
and writes you a check which you take to the cashier, and after you pay, you
take the receipt back to the first employee to pick up your stuff, and then
the employee tears the receipt so you can't get a second load for free.
Some of the larger produkty stores have two or three cash registers, and you
have to order and pay for all of your stuff separately. And if the employee
working the section of the store you need something from is on smoke break or
talking on her cell phone, and the other employees are in a bad mood, you just
have to wait for her to get back before you can even order.
Shop-girls (and it's almost always females working these types of jobs) tend
to be grumpy people. They're not paid well, their job is not comfortable,
and people are rude to them. So they tend to be rude back, although if
you're polite they can be really helpful, often out of simply gratefulness.
They rarely smile, and the only place I ever hear "spasibo za pokupku"
(thanks for you purchase) are at the Teremok bliny stands and at IKEA (a massive
Swedish home-furnishings store that just opened on the outskirts of town).
There is also a tendency to want to demonstrate salesmanship skills, I think,
or maybe it's just something to do to pass the time in the slower stores, such
as the ones that sell consumer goods. My second or third week here I decided
I just had to have a hairdryer (which was a smart move), so I went to a Khoztovary
(household goods) store. The girl tried to get me to buy the most expensive
one, but I told her something a bit cheaper would be better, since I'm a student.
I picked one out that I liked and started to get out my money to pay.
But she went ahead and explained all the different features of it to me: two
speeds, hot or cold air, the little thing on the end that snaps off, and even
went so far as to plug it in to prove to me that it worked. It would never
have occurred to me that I might buy a hairdryer, go home, plug it in, and then
nothing happen, but maybe that's a problem here. Anyway, I paid, and then
she told me about the warrantee and put everything in a little plastic pouch
for me.
A similar thing happened when I wanted to buy a purse. I had the money
out, ready to pay, and the girl started demonstrating to me that the straps
were strong, good quality, there were inside pockets, etc., and then encouraged
me to see how I looked carrying it and pointed to the floor-lenth mirror on
the other side of the shop.
Every time you buy anything, they tear the receipt. The original idea
behind this was that in the time you're waiting for whatever you bought (while
they make the coffee, get the stuff down from the shelf, etc.) you won't order
a second set from another employee with the same receipt, or else come back
later and do the same thing. The weird thing about it is, most people
tear the receipt as they're handing it to you, not as they're giving you your
stuff, so there's really no point to it at all. I was here two months
before I figured out why all the employees here tear the receipts, because hardly
anyone does it the right way. There are also receipt cans by most cash
registers so customers won't litter up the floor, and I've actually seen employees
tear the receipt and immediately throw it in the can rather than hand it to
the customer.
Not all stores give out plastic shopping bags for free - some charge a ruble
or two for the bag, some only give them if you bought a lot of stuff, and some
just don't have them at all. This leads to massive bag hoarding in most
households, because plastic sacks are necessary for just about every minute
of your day. (1) Many cloakrooms will only take hats, scarves, mittens,
etc., if they're in a plastic sack, and no one wants to carry those around all
day, so you have to have a sack on you for that. (2) It's more convenient
to carry your lunch and anything else in a plastic shopping bag than just about
any other means, because the bag is relatively durable and will also keep everything
dry. If you have a lot of stuff to carry, it's best to use two or three
sacks for weight distribution. You wouldn't want your sack to rip on the
street. (3) Since stores don't give out bags, you have to have at least
one on you for picking up dinner on the way home. (4) They're also a good
size for trash bags, which most people here don't buy, partially, I'm sure,
because produkty stores don't carry them.
An office supply chain here realized the value of the plastic sack, and gives
them out for free. Even if you only buy ten rubles worth of stuff, or
just a pen, they make you take a sack - and it's one of the sturdier ones, too.
It took me a while to figure this out, but then I noticed on the metro one day
that at least four other people (besides me) had a sack from this store.
It's really cheap advertising. And I'm sure there are also some people
who choose this store over other office-supply stores simply for the free sack.
Next Story: School starts. Maslenitsa. Home remedies